Don't suppose the tip is jammed in the hole still......please please.

If you can see the remnants of the GP tip blocking the hole.... gently bring that cylinder to TDC.... or ...Did she bring the engine to TDC on that cylinder before removing that GP..... probably not.

If you can get that cylinder to TDC with the tip in place, you may be able to get it out without head removal.

If it is already in the cylinder then I would pull the engine...... remove both heads and have them checked for bad valve guides. You would need a head gasket set, new valley pan etc.....

These engines are much easier to work on removed... real finger jammers and knuckle buster/back strainers trying to remove heads in vehicle. If by back right by the A/C plenum that head is the worst.


The timing mark is found on a little plate that is on the front of the engine on the passenger side. The plate is mounted so it is very close to the main pulley on the lower front of the engine which is mounted on the vibration damper. On the side of the vibration damper, is a line, which when lined up with the line marked (O) on the plate, tells you that the #1 piston is at TDC(top dead center) You can see the line on the damper, and it points to the line on the plate with the (barely visible)O mark on it.You'll have to find a way to turn your engine over by hand. Make sure you remove the power wire to the injection pump(so the engine won't start)and then rotate the engine until you can line up the marks.

The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.

Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left (passenger USA) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side (USA), front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.

 

1. If I can't see the gp tip, can i still tri and raise up the cylinder, or if do that am i risking the engine.

2. I am in VT the truck is in VA (a letter means a thousand miles right?) If i buy the truck i won't have access to a big shop to do the head. Can i get it out without pulling the engine, do i need to do the valley pan. Whats the quickest way to get in and out and on my way so i only have to miss a day or two of work? Could I take the oil pan off and go at it from the bottom?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Ben

 

1... if the tip is not visible then it is in the cylinder already, very seldom does it ever stop in the precup. You can try and gently bring that cylinder to TDC. You will feel a restriction and failure to rotate if the GP is in the cylinder......only 30 thou between head and cylinder.

2.. There is no easy way, IP out, intake, valley pan and head off. There are other things to be removed also....

I would like to suggest shipping or towing..... Head job is not a 5 hour job for inexperienced mechanics.......and a biotch to do over the fender. You would want to do both head gaskets if your there..

 

Here is a cutaway view to give you an idea of what your dealing with.
Click Here

 

I'm confused. Is that the glow plug i'm looking at or the injector. Where is the combustion chamber.

Does anybody know how wide a 93 is at the widest. Would it be possible to put it side a 24' Budget Box truck?

-Ben.

 

The injector is what you are seeing. Below the injector is the precup and the precup (red) chamber in the head. The glow plug is located just below the injector and you can just see the hole in this picture. The blue in the picture is the intake passage thats inside the head surrounded by the coolant. Scroll thru the other pictures for some other looks. These heads do not have a combustion chamber like a gasser head. These heads are flat on the block side. The head gasket is the only reason the pistons don't hit the heads. The pistons come up out of the block around 0.031.

 

What would you expect the time/cost to be for a somebody who has mechanical experience, although not with that engine?

How is the precup held in place?

Does anybody have a shop in Southern Va where i might be able to do this repair?

Thanks Ben

 

Time I'd be guessing.. 10 hours if the head(s) come off......

Precup is a force fit into the head usually, then held in place by the head gasket fire ring.......

 

If you're going to pull the heads, you REALLY want to have a cherry picker or overhead crane to wrangle the heads ( unless , of course, you're a 500 pound gorilla with bicepts as big as my gut, then you might not need one ). I can't imagine trying to remove or install those monsters without one. It's tricky enough with one to get the head on without tearing the new gasket up.

It's not manditory, but it's a good idea to get new head bolts too. They're supposed to be reusable, but I've had a couple that couldn't take the torque the second time around.

-------Robert

 

Hi,that happened to my pig 3 times.I put a board over the hole and then started it up.Well holy [censored],it was like a 3006.rifle went off.Sure enough that sucker shot out,perfect.Make sure it is completly broke off,with no thread left on it.I just hope you didn't pull the head already.

 

if you were going to pull the block then it might make sense to see if #7 #8 cylinders don't have any holes? New sleeves etc. etc. etc.

Just a thought?

 

I have one that is snapped off in the rear as well. I live in PA and just go with the 7. It always starts (sometimes in really cold weather it takes awhile). It seems more work than its worth..